The post Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland National Park – The Wild Side of the Czech Republic appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.
A 79 square kilometre blanket of flora and fauna, where towering monoliths of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains protrude through a thick forest canopy, Bohemian Switzerland National Park in the Czech Republic is a wild nature haven with well-marked trails. This hiking guide shows you where to go and how to see its magnificence beyond the famed Pravcicka Gate archway.
The Czech Republic’s heritage isn’t just in its major cities, iconic spa towns and southern wine lands. Bohemian Switzerland National Park, on the northern borders just 90 minutes from Prague, is one of its greatest natural assets and one of the most beautiful corners of the country.
Preservation of nature formed, shaped, and weathered over millions of years; the unique sandstone rocks are Bohemian Switzerland’s defining feature. Hulks of cliff rock stand guard or have been turned into castle-like fortress lookout points for the stealthiest hikers to scramble and climb for the visual reward. Soaring pine, silvery birch, needle fir, stalked beech and mighty oak trees are just some species that fill the dense forest and conceal deep river-channelled gorges.
In all its pristine glory, large segments of Bohemian Switzerland National Park are accessible via well-marked, signposted trails that take you on various routes through the diverse terrain. Its symbolic Pravcicka Gate – the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe – is the most popular day-trip pilgrimage on the Circuit hike between H?ensko and Mezní Louka, combined with a visit to the Wild Gorge to boat on its softly winding waterways.
But the less-trodden H?ebenovka trail from the village of Jet?ichovice is a chance to see the best of Bohemian Switzerland differently on a rugged route connecting three rocky mega-monoliths for unbeatable panorama vantage points.
Are you thinking of hiking in Bohemian Switzerland? Here’s how to plan your trip.
How to Go Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland National Park – The Wild Side of the Czech Republic.
Planning Your Trip to Bohemian Switzerland, Czech Republic
With a cluster of villages and a vast area of trails, here’s how to narrow down where to begin.
Where is Bohemian Switzerland National Park?
A vast swathe of the National Park can be found in the northern Bohemian region of the Czech Republic and borders the 94 square kilometre hulk of Germany’s Saxon Switzerland National Park. The two parks form one protected area with shared biodiversity, which connected trails for cross-access.
How to Get to Bohemian Switzerland National Park
The easiest route from Prague to Bohemian Switzerland is via a 90-minute train to the small city of D??ín. Services leave hourly and cost around 200 CZK/8 Euro, one way. From D??ín, you can connect to H?ensko (west of the main circuit trail) or Mezní Louka (east of the circuit trail) via local bus.
Best Time to Go Hiking
The best time to visit Bohemian Switzerland National Park is in the shoulder seasons – Spring (April to June) and Autumn (September to November) – which allows for comfortable weather conditions and fewer crowds. The summer months (July to August) can reach high temperatures, making the more arduous climbs unbearable. In Winter (December to February), much of the Park is off limits, closed or advisable to avoid due to falling trees and treacherous trails due to snow and ice.
Year-round safety on the trails is your responsibility.
Where to Stay in Bohemian Switzerland
H?ensko is more geared toward tourists, but staying in the village of Mezní Louka gives you a base from which to explore both the popular circuit trail sites (Pravcicka Gate and the Wild Gorge) as well as get to Jet?ichovice further east to sample the picturesque section of the H?ebenovka trail. The first hotel was built here in 1892 as a health resort. Check here for the hotel options in the area.
We stayed at U Fo?ta, a modern hotel with the option of haylofts, set in the forest surrounding the village. The 200-year-old former woodman’s lodge is now the restaurant, serving modern Czech cuisine using locally sourced ingredients.
U Fo?ta hotel in Mezní Louka.
Getting Around Bohemian Switzerland National Park
Public Bus
Aside from hiking more trails, one advantage of staying longer beyond a day trip is free public transport. With excellent bus connections between villages and hike start and end points, it’s easy to get around Bohemian Switzerland without a car.
Transfer Service
Bag and Bike provide transport for visitors from D??ín to surrounding areas. They provided a transfer from the train station to the hotel in Mezní Louka outside of the scheduled bus times.
Helpful Apps and Emergency Numbers
As the signal decreases the further you go into the forest, you’ll need trail maps and public transport tickets to hand to help chart your route and time.
Mapy.cz – I downloaded this app and pre-set the two trails I took, which worked offline. It also collates your hike stats – the distance in kilometres, total time, elevation profile, and average speed.
DÚK Pass – Pre-purchase and pre-load your bus tickets onto this app, automatically validating daily. Open the ticket and scan the code on the front of the bus.
If you find a picture of the sign listed at the various bus stops and trailheads, take a picture to store in your phone. The symbols can be a little confusing, so here is a breakdown.
112 – European Emergency Number
150 – Fire and Rescue Service
155 – Emergency Medical Service.
158 – Police
Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland – Best Trails to Take
Four core hiking trails in Bohemian Switzerland (Red, Yellow, Green and Blue) cut clear paths through this labyrinth. So consider staying at least one or two nights to see more beyond a day trip from Prague or one of the nearby cities in southern Germany, which pushes everyone towards the famed archway only.
Bohemian Switzerland’s hiking trails are well-marked and colour coded.
Hiking the Full Circuit Trail in Bohemian Switzerland
A circuit of six stages, the Circuit Trail is easy to navigate on foot or can be combined with the local buses.
Full Circuit Trail – Red, Yellow and Green Hiking Trials
Route: Round trip on foot from either H?ensko or Mezní Louka Time: 7hrs Distance: 18km Elevation: 700m Highlights: Janov Lookout Tower, Divoka Gorge, Pravcicka GateHalf Circuit Trail – Red and Green Hiking Trails
It follows the circuit trail but cuts out the Janov Lookout Tower trail and heads straight to the woodland to enter the gorge.
Route: Combining hiking paths with buses between Mezní Louka and Tri Prameny (for Pravcicka Gate), H?ensko and Na Hajenkach (for the Wild Gorge) Time: 4-5hrs Distance:5km Elevation: 550 m Highlights: Divoka Gorge, Pravcicka Gate
Bohemian Switzerland Hiking Map – Circuit Trail © https://www.ceskesvycarsko.cz
Things to See in Bohemian Switzerland on the Circuit Hike
If this is the only trail you do on your visit, the complete circuit may suit you if you want to cover all ground. Because of our planned multi-day hiking, we chose the half-circuit route, taking buses between areas where we wouldn’t miss out on core sites.
Pravcicka Gate – Prav?ická Brána
From Mezní Louka, we took a bus to Tri Prameny for the starting point for Pravcicka Gate. The wide, stony starting path has a slight incline before it gains elevation on a route around the rock face and through the woodland mound. A fire broke out in this area in July 2022, so you’ll see devastated forests, with bundles of sprouting green as the forest heals via natural regeneration rather than mass replanting.
The start of the climb to Pravcicka Gate (Prav?ická Brána).
The mid-way woodland point to the foot of Pravcicka Gate.
Winding rock trails to Pravcicka Gate.
Accessible only by foot, it’s a 45-minute winding trek to the foot of the arch, which requires a little stamina, especially on some of the chunky steps. Ptavcicka Gate is the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe, 27 metres long and 21 metres high and while, for preservation reasons, you cannot walk upon it, entry to the site (50 CZK per person / €2.50) allows you access to three viewing platforms, with commanding views also of the limestone walls that encase the raised archway.
The view of Pravcicka Gate (Prav?ická Brána) from the viewing platforms.
The sandstone rock wall formation surrounding Pravcicka Gate.
Pravcicka Gate’s popularity spans back to the 19th century when it became a sightseeing pilgrimage for the wealthy, the noble, and the artistic. The Sokolí hnízdo (Falcon’s Nest) chateau was built in 1881 at the order of Prince Edmund of Clary-Aldringen to host guests (it remains open today as a restaurant and photo gallery). Hans Christian Andersen’s visit inspired his fairy tale, ‘The Snow Queen’ and the arch was used as a location when filming the 2005 film, ‘The Chronicles Of Narnia: The Lion, The Witch And The Wardrobe’.
The Sokolí hnízdo (Falcon’s Nest) chateau, built in 1881, is now a restaurant and photo gallery.
The archway disappears behind you, like you’ve left a hidden kingdom, on the faster walk down. You can hop on the next bus or walk 20-30 minutes to the alpine feel, riverside village of H?ensko for lunch. The lowest elevation in the country, H?ensko makes for a good resting place before starting another trail ascent.
The riverside village and tourist hub of H?ensko in Bohemian Switzerland.
Janov Lookout Tower – Janovská Vyhlídka
You can take the bus to Janov and walk the 45-minute yellow trail parallel to the countryside to access the 40-metre-high Janov Lookout Tower (free to enter). We chose to bypass this because of the higher, epic rock castle viewpoints on the H?ebenovka Trail and instead took the bus to Na Hajenkach – the start of the Green Trail to Mezni Mustek and into the Wild Gorge.
The Wild Gorge – Divoká Sout?ska
What begins with level, serene woodland soon turns into a steep zigzag descent on a forest slope (a slightly adapted route following the forest fires) before meandering through a narrow, overgrown path hugged by limestone rocks – secret garden vibes as you follow the distant sounds of the river and the gorge echoes.
The secret garden path down to the Wild Gorge (Divoká Sout?ska).
Edmund Gorge – the main draw – remains closed following the fire, so visitors are now directed to the Wild Gorge instead of Edmund Gorge (Edmundova sout?ska). A signposted 10-minute walk brings you to the tiny jetty for the green longboats, ready to take you on a short but scenic round-trip on a small section of the river canyon (100 CZK per person/€5).
The tranquil journey glides through the low waters of this narrow rock-walled gully, covered in sprouting moss and fern patches. It’s rugged and otherworldly, and despite the hundreds of thousands who take this journey every season, it still exudes a feeling of remaining relatively untouched.
A boat ride on the Wild Gorge is one of the main attractions of Bohemian Switzerland’s Circuit hike.
The rugged, Wild Gorge (Divoká Sout?ska) in the canyon depths of Bohemian Switzerland.
The boat guide points out the natural highlights of the Wild Gorge.
Heading back to the Mezni Mustek river point, it’s a steep, aching, jagged climb up through the valley forest basin to the village of Mezna, where you can catch a bus or walk a further 20 minutes to Mezní Louka.
The steep zigzag climb from the gorge to Mezni Mustek.
Hiking the Jet?ichovice Loop on Bohemian Switzerland’s H?ebenovka Trail
Are you staying in the region longer, with time for more hiking and looking to see more of Bohemian Switzerland’s lesser-trodden terrain? The H?ebenovka trail is a 100 km long route established to showcase the best of the region – a trail merging new-found trails with century-old pathways that would take several days to complete.
The Jet?ichovice Loop is a great way to sample the best of it in one day as you follow in the footsteps of explorers and surveyors who have left rock-carved marks in the walls since the 1700s. With evidence of Prehistoric settlements found under 25 rock formations here, the area is also deemed an archaeological site with the request that visitors help protect it by not digging into the soil layers in any way.
Jet?ichovice Loop Trail – Red Hiking Trail
Round trip on foot from Jet?ichovice. Or Jet?ichovice to Mezní Louka. Time: 7.5hrs Distance: 19km Elevation: 787m Highlights: Mary’s Viewpoint (Mariina vyhlidka), Vilemina Wall (Viliminina stena), Rudolf’s Rock (Rudolfuv kamen), Saunstejn Rock (Saunstejnem)
The map of Bohemian Switzerland with village hubs and connecting hiking and biking routes is displayed at local Tourist Information offices.
What to See in Bohemian Switzerland on the Jet?ichovice Loop
The area around Jet?ichovice is stunning. The forest is thicker, the sandstone rock formations more profound, and the castle rocks higher. It’s a natural trail of epic proportions, but not for those looking for an easy hike and, in parts, not for the faint-hearted. Some elevation paths are long and steep, others require light scrambling over worn rocks to gain incline, and some rock column ladders are almost straight vertical to the summit, often topped by the wooden shelters of the former fire watching towers and hunting decks.
All viewpoints are free to enter and unsuitable for those with a fear of heights or limited hiking experience to tackle the light technical climb.
Mary’s Viewpoint – Mariina Vyhlídka
We took the bus from Mezní Louka to Jet?ichovice, considered one of the oldest villages in Bohemian Switzerland and the former sawmill area. The red trail through the craggy forest inclines quickly. The ashy and sandy parts of tree trunks and roots are remnants of the 2006 fire, which helps to sustain natural regeneration without human intervention, alongside the new variations of vegetation and fungi that have sprouted here since.
The steep rock stairs at the start of the Jet?ichovice Loop hike.
Mary’s Viewpoint (named after Countess Marie Anna Kinský when the first pavilion was erected in 1856) is the easier of the rock top ascents. Exiting the main trail on the left, you’ll gain elevation on a woodland footpath before entering the rock via a wooden ladder. The 200-metre climb up is aided by a winding metal staircase for access to the top of the sandstone hulk. The pavilion has plenty of seating space, making it a popular resting spot, with views from the soft valley hills that turn into rock-strewn forest-cloaked mounds.
Part of the metal stairway up to Mary’s Viewpoint (Mariina Vyhlídka).
The view to the pavilion atop Mary’s Viewpoint, seen from Rudolf’s Rock.
Vilemina Wall – Vilemínina St?na
Back on the hiking trail, the ochre path continues through the forest with sprawling tree roots, passing drops with views across the basin of the National Park. Once you reach the ginormous rock overhang with the singular wooden bench, the path up continues to the Vilemina Wall viewpoint – a flat rock top observation deck named after Wilhelmine Kinský, looking out to the other Kinský peaks – Mary’s Viewpoint and the towering Rudolf’s Rock.
The view across the hills from the Vilemina Wall (Vilemínina St?na).
Rudolf’s Rock – Rudolf?v Kámen
The path continues undulating trails before rounding an impressive ridge wall of finger-like formations. You’ll know when you’ve reached the starting point for the ascent to Rudolf’s Rock when you see a crevice between two rock walls, whose naturally worn stepstones are bridged with wooden platforms.
Wild woodland on the way to Rudolf’s Rock (Rudolf?v Kámen).
Some of the technical hiking elements when climbing Rudolf’s Rock.
Rudolf’s Rock isn’t an easy climb, with slight technical elements, including rock scrambling, a narrow park around the rock face with a sheer drop, and the last pull-up onto the rock face with the aid of small metal ladder rungs. Once you reach this tiny summit, marked by a small wooden hut complete with a portrait of the nobleman Rudolf Kinský, you’ll be rewarded with one of the highest panorama views on the trail, above the treetop canopies where the forest unfolds for dozens of Kilometres.
A narrow footpath on the climb to the summit of Rudolf’s Rock (Rudolf?v Kámen).
The last metal ladder and rock scramble to reach the top of Rudolf’s Rock.
Elevated views from Rudolf’s Rock over the forest patchwork of Bohemian Switzerland.
Getting down requires the same care and calculated footing, where you will descend back to the intersection and onto the main trail. The green trail leads back to Jet?ichovice for those not continuing towards Šaunštejn Rock and Mezní Louka. We detoured down through the most magnificent patch of dense forest, onto the former Saxony trading route road and onward to the meadowed Vysoká Lípa village, where we stopped for lunch at Hotel Kortus, a historic former inn building.
Hiking around the unique sandstone rock formations on the Jet?ichovice Loop hike.
The sheer size of Bohemian Switzerland and its massive forest slopes.
Into the dense and magical Bohemian Switzerland forest.
The historic Hotel Kortus in Vysoká Lípa village – the best lunch stop.
Saunstejn Rock Castle – Pod Šaunštejnem
Returning to the forest entrance on the yellow trail, pick up the red trail again toward Saunstejn Rock. Within minutes you are face-to-face with this colossal mega rock, and if you thought Rudolf’s Rock tested you, Saunstejn ups the ante. First, with steep wooden stairs into the foot of the rock, followed by an almost vertical wooden ladder that cuts a narrow, body-wide track through the rock to the lower platform of the basalt summit.
View of Saunstejn Rock Castle (Pod Šaunštejnem) on the red trail to Mezni Louka.
Various small ladders and metal platforms connect corridors and small cave holes – indentations of the history of Saunstejn Rock’s legend as a ‘bandits castle’ hideaway after being captured from the noble family who used it as a trade route lookout in the 14th century. This is a prime viewpoint, even if your heart is still racing from getting up. Still, with a broader surface area to wander and rest, there’s plenty of time to recover and admire the mighty Rudolf’s Rock and the sweeping views over Bohemian Switzerland.
The steep and vertical stairs through the Saunstejn Rock Castle.
Summit walkway at Saunstejn Rock Castle (Pod Šaunštejnem).
Small Prav?ice Gate – Malá Prav?ická Brána
Continuing the trail, another turnoff leads to another sandstone arch, known as Small Prav?ická – a forest-pocket-sized version of Bohemian Switzerland’s iconic site, with a metal ladder leading to a small viewing platform (not upon the archway itself).
The trek back to Mezní Louka is through large segments of the forest decimated by the 2022 fire, but you get to round the foot of a small peak before continuing down on a series of ladders and rock steps. Avoid this challenging ascent by starting at Jet?ichovice – a route that puts this conveyor belt of sites in the perfect natural order.
The bare and rugged forest paths back to Mezni Louka.
Hiking in the Czech Republic – Is Bohemian Switzerland Worth Visiting?
A trip to Bohemian Switzerland showcases one of the Czech Republic’s most naturally beautiful and often overlooked areas despite its proximity to the capital, Prague. Whether you are an outdoors enthusiast wanting to trek to the iconic Pravcicka Gate or into the gorge canyons, or a seasoned pro looking to get into the deep depths of pristine forest and atop uniquely formed rock crests, Bohemian Switzerland is a platform of Czech natural heritage, open and accessible to everyone.
More on Czech Republic Travel
If you want more information on the lesser-known destinations in the Czech Republic, consider checking out my guides on the uncommon things to do in Ostrava and the unexpected things to do in Brno.
Disclosure: This guide to Bohemian Switzerland has been created in partnership with Visit Czech Republic to showcase a lesser-known side of the country. All opinions remain my own.
The post Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland National Park – The Wild Side of the Czech Republic appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.