“You can put your strength down. I’m sitting here with you at your kitchen table. You don’t need to say anything.” - Eden Robinson, from Writing Prompts for the Broken-hearted.The earthiness of pumpkin works well in sweet applications. I...
“You can put your strength down. I’m sitting here with you at your kitchen table. You don’t need to say anything.” - Eden Robinson, from Writing Prompts for the Broken-hearted.
The earthiness of pumpkin works well in sweet applications. I like to enliven rather than temper it; with savory-driven spices, darkened sugars, and warm undertones that augment the domesticated vegetable. I’m going to ask you to roast a whole pumpkin down, then purée the flesh to a silky-smooth form of itself, instead of relying on the canned kind for this recipe. It makes the taste richer, stronger, and more pure. It does take longer, but lately, the distraction has been great. It’s hard to stay focused when you’re handed a dream, this helps.
For the purée
a large Butternut pumpkin
Pre-heat the oven to 200 C (400 F). Skin, halve, then scoop and de-seed the pumpkin from its blossom end. Cut it into rough chunks, then set those onto a large baking sheet. Roast, covered with aluminium foil and turning halfway through, until tender – just under an hour depending on size. Leave to cool, then blend until smooth. You’ll need to reserve 450 g (1 ¾ cups + 2 tablespoons) for the filling. You can make the purée a few days in advance, and any leftovers can be sealed and frozen for a few months.
For the pastry
175 g (1 1/3 cups + 1 tablespoon) all-purpose flour, 50 g (1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon) confectioners’ sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, 115 g (1 stick / ½ cup) unsalted butter (cold and cut into ½-inch cubes), 1 egg yolk, 2 tablespoons ice water, 1 egg white (for brushing)
Put the flour, sugar and salt into a large bowl, then toss through the butter. Using your fingers, begin to rub the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a pebble-like meal. A few larger stray chunks are fine, if not ideal, to remain. Add in the yolk and water, mixing with a wooden spoon to bring the clumpy-dough together. Use your hands to shape into a disc, then cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least an hour before use. The dough can be made ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Arrange a rack in the center of the oven. Set a 23-cm (9-inch) fluted tart tin onto a baking sheet. Unwrap the dough onto a floured work surface. Begin to roll into a circle that’s about 6-mm (1/4-inch) thick. Carefully ease the pastry into the crevices of the tin, then run the pin over the top to trim the excess overhang. Transfer to the freezer while you pre-heat the oven to 180 C (350 F).
When you’re ready to bake, tear off a large sheet of aluminium foil. Set it into the tin, being sure to cover any exposed pastry, then fill to the top with ceramic weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove and let stand for 5 minutes then carefully discard the weights and foil. Lightly brush over the egg white. Return to the oven and continue to bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, until the shell is light golden brown. Set aside while you prepare the filling.
For the filling
450 g (1 ¾ cups + 2 tablespoons) pumpkin purée, 135 g (1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons) light brown sugar, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon Chinese five spice, 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger, a pinch of cracked black pepper, 3 eggs, 160 ml (2/3 cup) heavy cream, 120 g (1/2 cup) crème fraîche
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the pumpkin purée, light brown sugar, and all the spices. Whisk in the eggs, one at a time, until combined, then stream in the cream and crème fraîche. Whisk until silky-smooth. Pour the filling into the cooled shell.
Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until puffed around the edges. It shouldn’t be set completely, with the core retaining a slight-wiggle to it. Remove and allow to cool completely, before finishing with praline and cream.
For the praline
150 g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar, 80 g (1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon) pumpkin seeds, a pinch of flaky salt
Set a silpat or piece of non-stick parchment paper onto a baking sheet. Scatter over the pumpkin seeds in a thin layer. Put the sugar into a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. Cook, swirling occasionally but not stirring, until it has transformed into an amber-hued liquid. Quickly pour over the seeds to coat, and sprinkle with salt. Let set then break into shards, or alternatively, pulverize to a crumb.
For the cream
180 ml (3/4 cup) heavy cream, 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the cream, crème fraîche, sugar and vanilla to soft but stable peaks. Swirl over the top of the tart, then adorn with praline. Serve.
This pie is also wonderful eaten chilled. Any leftovers must be stored in the refrigerator.
