An open letter to a common question
Before the military coup in Myanmar, I used to get frequent messages from foreign meditators inquiring about where they could practice and ordain, as well as how to organize pilgrimages. They contacted me because my name had gotten around due to my long-time involvement in the country and the projects I undertook there. I had spent several years during the transition period leading a volunteer project to create a kind of “Meditator’s Guidebook” that would support those coming to the Golden Land for spiritual development. The project involved researching hundreds of meditation centers, lineages, monasteries, nunneries, pagodas, and even caves, in order to inform and make these places more accessible for practitioners, which was my overarching goal. And to better support yogis and monastics passing through Yangon, a local monastery provided me with four empty rooms that I cleaned, furnished and made freely available to meditators passing through the city, so they could stay in a Dhamma environment instead of a hotel rooms on a noisy street. Although I don’t know how many foreigners asked for my help at some time or another, I’d bet the number well in the hundreds.
Today, I continue to get messages from those hoping to come to Myanmar for meditation, either asking my thoughts on the safety or ethics of such a trip… or ignoring these questions altogether and simply wanting help in planning a trip they’d already decided to take. Because these requests are now coming more regularly, I am posting this as an open letter for anyone considering going to Myanmar at this time.
“Dear Fellow Meditator,
Thanks for your message. I definitely understand your interest in wanting to go to Myanmar to practice meditation and maybe stay at a monastery. Indeed, this is the reason I, myself, visited the country for the first time, that I ended up living there for nearly 15 years, and that I’ve spent so much time supporting foreign practitioners to more easily access the country’s spiritual riches. Yet in spite of that, I would strongly encourage you not to travel to Myanmar now. In fact, I would urge you to avoid a trip there at all costs. I say this for several reasons.
First, the context of my response is that the ongoing crisis and humanitarian disaster unfolding in Myanmar continues. Some people have asked me, ‘Can I trust the media, is it really as bad as they say it is?’ My answer is, ‘It is in actuality far worse than any reporting you’ve seen!’ The conflict has displaced over two million people who don’t know when they can ever return home, as was discussed in a recent panel discussion that we hosted. The military jails and kills with impunity, yet the Burmese people continue to bravely resist for the better future that they all aspire to.
So first, of course, there is the matter of your own safety. Given the current state of things, anyone who says that you can follow a plan or itinerary that ensures any degree of safety is either delusional or grossly misinformed. While it may be true to say that there is more conflict in some parts of the country than others, there is random violence occurring everywhere, and it often happens without warning. Similarly, anyone who says that going to meditate at a monastery will be a kind of protection in and of itself is also either delusional or grossly misinformed. Monasteries have been repeatedly bombed, raided, and taken over as military bases. Even silent meditation retreats have been attacked at times, as Kyun Pin Sayadaw described on a recent podcast, where he also spoke of bullets flying through meditation kutis and soldiers storming the Dhamma Hall!
Second, it's not just your safety that’s at risk, but that of anyone who you associate with. Even Burmese people that you might meet casually or briefly— let alone those helping you in any way— could very likely fall under suspicion by local authorities, and face dire consequences… which you will likely never become aware of, and which you could do nothing to prevent. Any spiritual benefit you might accrue in meditation there would be negated if anyone suffered simply because of your presence there, especially now that you are aware of the associated risk.
Third, the Myanmar economy is all but broken; there is a shortage of food and water throughout the country. The humanitarian arm of our nonprofit, Better Burma, has been active in supporting rice donations to monks and nuns, especially in local communities where they are no longer able to provide these and other requisites. A foreign presence would take precious resources away from Burmese who are barely able to, and in some cases not, able to get by. Yet your host would likely never admit this you, as the Burmese people are generous to a fault and don't like to complain, even when they face hardships, and especially when they’re supporting spiritual endeavors. So you would be given the best of what they have, at a time when there is barely enough to go around.
Finally, a visit now, despite one's intentions, will serve only to legitimize a murderous regime. The junta is, in fact, hoping that more foreign travelers visit, because increased numbers of foreign visitors would not only present a veneer of normalcy for the regime, but also add money to their coffers. In an especially sickening twist of irony, there has even been a concerted effort at the highest levels to bring foreign monks to the consecration ceremonies of new pagodas and Buddha images.
Still, some meditators insist that they will be taking their trip "for Dhamma, and not for politics," or try to assure me that they will be able to take care that their money only supports local people and businesses. But I'm sorry, this is, again, delusional, clueless, or knowingly turning a blind eye to the reality there; or simply magical thinking. Travel to Myanmar at this time for any reason is by definition political whether one wants it to be or not, period.
I understand this might not be the response you were hoping to hear, and I deeply regret having to give it, as I feel it is truly tragic that the Golden Land is not able to share its spiritual wisdom as before; hopefully, one day, that opportunity will come again. But until then, I strongly recommend that no foreign traveler or meditator visit Myanmar.
If you really do value the teachings of liberation, and are grateful for the Burmese teachers or traditions that have provided them, I encourage you to explore the many positive ways you can still show your gratitude in the meantime. One way is stay informed. You can do so by reading up on the situation, or by listening to our podcast episodes. Also, if you have any Burmese friends or acquaintances, reach out to them and let them know you’re an ally. Another possibility is that if you have extra time, consider volunteering with a local organization, or with us! Or, make your voice heard in your local community, by writing editorials in the neighborhood paper, posting online, or contacting your local representative. And finally, consider making a donation to organizations supporting the Burmese people, or consider a contribution to our mission.
It is distressing that a place that has been the home to the some of the greatest wisdom the world has ever known is not at present in a state to unconditionally welcome spiritual aspirants as it once was. We all deeply hope that the current dark period we find ourselves in will soon dissipate, and that Burmese throughout the country can be free, healthy, and safe. We hope that Burmese in the diaspora can finally return home, and we wish that meditators and monastics may travel from around the world to once again find a life-changing practice inspired by the warm generosity of the Golden Land.”