The green chile chicken enchiladas at Santa Fe BK. | Christian Rodriguez Green chile dishes, pernil, and dressed-up burgers At some point in your culinary evolution, you may stop straining at all the new places opening in town, and start looking around for the old ones, where the food may be better and cheaper than the latest burrata pizza, waffle cone filled with pastrami ice cream, or a pound of squishy candy from Sweden. Gena’s Grill is such a place. You almost can’t spot it on First Avenue in the East Village, a place so small and anonymous it blends into the other storefronts. Yet it’s been around in one form or another at least since the 1980s, and maybe earlier. It was described in 1994, when it was called the National, as “a Cuban joint run by a family of women who make excellent pork roast, fricassee chicken, black beans, and yellow rice.” Well, now the name has changed, but the interior is the same, with a lunch counter and three tables. Though Cuban food is still the heart of the menu, it also includes lots of Dominican and Puerto Rican fare. The pernil is the thing to get, though I’m also partial to the Cuban sandwich, chicken cracklings, and sancocho. 210 First Avenue, near 13th Street, East Village Robert Sietsema/Eater NY Pernil at Gena’s Grill. Since it opened back in 2021 during the pandemic, Santa Fe BK has proudly flown the sunburst flag of New Mexico out front with a menu that includes green chile enchiladas, mac and cheese, and taco salads. From noon to 3 p.m. everyday their bargain green chile cheeseburger ($9) holds sway, with a pickle-y topping of famous Hatch chiles, American cheese, onions, and a nicely grilled patty on a branded brioche bun. Early risers can get a green chile burrito betweem 8 a.m. and noon — equally good and hard to find in NYC. 178 North Eighth Street, near Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg Robert Sietsema/Eater NY Green chile cheeseburger at Santa Fe BK. Speaking of burgers, British import Hawksmoor has rolled out a new one, the Notorious BEEF, available after 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday in the bar area and after 5:30 on Sunday. It’s two dry-aged beef patties, Velveeta, lettuce, onions, pickles, and a requisite special sauce ($25). If you’re feeling fancy, order the beef fat fries and a Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew (gin/ginger/lemon/ale) for $45. 109 E. 22nd Street, at Park Avenue South, Gramercy Hawksmoor The Notorious BEEF at Hawksmoor.