Are you sure you’re doing it right?

Whether your hair is two inches long or halfway down your back, most of us have been washing it the same way for years without giving it much thought. Shampoo. Rinse. Conditioner. Done. That’s probably how most of us learned. Hair washing is one of those life skills we simply absorb somewhere between childhood and adulthood.

Every so often, dermatologists and hairstylists point out that many of us have been doing it wrong all along.  You won’t go bald from one bad shampoo on a Tuesday, but a surprising number of common complaints—an itchy scalp, hair that looks dull a day after washing, greasy roots with dry ends, even flakes that stubbornly refuse to disappear—can sometimes be traced back to how we wash our hair rather than what products we buy.

The good news is that improving your routine doesn’t require a shelf full of expensive shampoos or salon treatments. Most of us just need to pay a little more time and attention to the scalp and a little less to the hair itself.  Many assume that shampoo’s job was to clean your hair. It turns out shampoo’s primary job is to clean your scalp.

Hair itself doesn’t produce oil. Your scalp does.

Throughout the day, your scalp produces sebum, the natural oil that keeps skin from drying out. Add perspiration, dust, pollen, styling products and environmental grime, and it’s easy to see why the scalp—not the length of your hair—is where cleansing needs to happen.

Best Shampooing Practices

One article I read made a great analogy – Think about washing a paintbrush. You spend most of your effort cleaning where the bristles are attached because that’s where the buildup collects. Hair works much the same way.

A quarter-size amount of shampoo is enough for many people, although thick or very dense hair may need a bit more. What matters isn’t the volume of bubbles but making sure the shampoo reaches your scalp.

If your hair is loaded with hairspray, dry shampoo, mousse or other styling products, some experts recommend shampooing twice. The first wash loosens oil and residue; the second cleans the scalp.

Fingertips not fingernails

There’s something oddly satisfying about scratching your scalp.  Resist the temptation.

Your fingernails can create tiny abrasions that irritate the scalp, particularly if you already deal with dandruff, eczema or sensitive skin.

Instead, use the pads of your fingers to massage the shampoo in gentle circles. Besides cleaning more effectively, a minute or two of massage feels surprisingly relaxing and may help loosen dead skin and product buildup.

Hot water is not your friend

Few things feel better than stepping into a hot shower after a long day. However, if your hair could cringe, it would when the hot water lands on it.

Very hot water removes more of your scalp’s natural oils, which can leave hair looking dry while prompting some scalps to produce even more oil afterward. It’s a frustrating cycle: wash aggressively, become oilier, wash even more aggressively.

Lukewarm water does the job just as well without being quite so harsh.

Some hairstylists suggest finishing with a cool rinse because it helps smooth the outer layer of the hair, giving it a shinier appearance.

Don’t rush the rinsing

Ask hairstylists about common mistakes, and one answer comes up again and again: people don’t rinse long enough. Leftover shampoo or conditioner can leave hair looking flat, feeling sticky or becoming oily more quickly than expected.  A few extra seconds under the water can make a noticeable difference.

Conditioners have job responsibilities

Conditioner often gets treated like shampoo’s sidekick, but it serves an entirely different purpose.  While shampoo cleans, conditioner helps replace moisture and smooth the hair’s outer surface.

That’s why conditioner belongs mostly from the middle of your hair down to the ends, where dryness and damage are most likely to occur.

Unless your scalp is unusually dry or your stylist recommends otherwise, there’s usually little benefit to coating your roots with conditioner and In fact, doing so can make freshly washed hair fall flat sooner than you’d like.

How often should you wash your hair?

There is no simple answer.  How often you wash depends on several factors: your age, hair texture, activity level, climate, what season it is, and how much oil your scalp naturally produces.  Your scalp will be your guide, so do a little research. Your scalp’s oil production is influenced primarily by hormones and genetics.  If your hair feels heavy, looks oily, or your scalp begins to itch, it’s probably time. If your hair still feels fresh and your scalp is comfortable, there’s little reason to wash.

Five takeaways to remember

• Shampoo your scalp, not your hair.
• Use your fingertips, not your fingernails.
• Lukewarm water is kinder than hot.
• Conditioner belongs mostly on the mid-lengths and ends.
• Wash according to your scalp’s needs.

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